“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” – Mark Twain


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Bahamas Chapter 10: Long Island

Long Island, Bahamas marks the last Chapter in our journey through the Bahamas.  We stopped at two different anchorages, and stayed a little over a week.  We rented a car with friends and checked out the island including:  Dean’s Blue Hole and some caves.  This island was devastated by Hurricane Joaquin (Category 4 hurricane that hit in October 2015) and is still recovering.  

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Beach Bar for Cruisers

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Snorkeling Dean's Blue Hole

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Spelunking

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Lots of creepy, crawly things in the caves!

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We absolutely loved the Bahamas and would like to eventually go back, but our current plan is to continue to head south.  Turks & Caicos here we come!


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Bahamas Chapter 8: George Town (aka Chicken Harbor)

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Have you ever gone on a cruise on a cruise ship or went to summer camp?  You know how everything is scheduled and everyone is friends by the end of the time there…this is what George Town is like.  I am not even joking…there is Yoga and Water Aerobics each morning, weekly poker tournaments, volleyball each afternoon, and fires & sundowners on the beach.  And, if all that is not enough for you, there is plenty of hiking, snorkeling, restaurants with live bands, etc.

The harbor consists of multiple anchorages, which is the home to several hundred boats that come to this stop in the Bahamas, where they remain for the entire winter season.  There is a Cruisers’ Net that comes over the VHF each morning to discuss the on-goings in the harbor, announces items available for Buy-Sell-Trade, and includes Arrivals and Departures of vessels to the area.  To be honest, when we first arrived here all of this was very overwhelming, after we had spent over three months in pretty small, quiet anchorages.

We had an extended stay here as we waited for our guest (Frank) to arrive from Boston, Massachusetts.  The timing could not have been more prefect.  We ended up being at this island during the National Family Island Regatta, which we learned is the biggest sailing event in the Bahamas.  Boats and people come from every island to participate in the races and festivities.  Regatta Point, an otherwise quiet street, became an entire town of shacks and stages just for this event.  Besides the races and drinking & eating, there were art exhibits, parades, a fashion show, and bands.  It was amazing to see this quiet little town swell with thousands of people over the course of just a week.  We had such a good time with Frank and miss him already!

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Race boats arrive via barge or are towed by a power boat

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Shacks being erected

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Shacks ready for action

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Cheers! Tasting our first Sky Juice.  From left to right:  Stacey & Jesse (sv Smitty), Chris & Jim (sv Radio Waves), Frank (sv Smitty guest)

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Late night (well, early morning)….well past my bedtime, but well worth it

Chat’N’Chill is one of the famous stops of this area, just across the harbor from Georgetown on Stocking Island.  They have a weekly pig roast, daily volleyball games, and of course a beach bar.

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We did manage to snug into a quiet spot that hardly anyone goes to anchor called Redshanks.  It was a great place to hide out from high winds that we kept experiencing.  The most amount of boats that we saw in this area was about 15, which meant that the most beautiful beach was virtually all ours! We probably spent the most amount of our time while in Georgetown anchored here. 

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views around Redshanks

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bridge that you go under as you dinghy to/from town.  

On each larger island, there is a monument that identifies to approaching vessels which island that they are in fact approaching.  The short hike up to the top of the hill to the monument on Monument Beach rewards you with the most spectacular views of the surrounding area.

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sunset with Deborah & Keith (sv Wrightaway)

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spotted this eel as we were snorkeling

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You get a pretty diverse group of visitors to this island

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This kid kicked my butt at checkers (likely because he made up new rules as we played)

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Bubbly pool – nice afternoon of relaxing and wine with Radio Waves’ crew

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weenie roast on Frank’s last night

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Flip Flop Beach

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this is how the local police handle derelict boats

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sadly, this was where we departed ways with Radio Waves.  Thank you both again for everything – we had a really great time enjoying this experience with you!


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Chapter 7: Lee Stocking Island

Lee Stocking Island may be our favorite stop that we made in the Bahamas.  There is enough to do that we could stay for weeks, which we did! But, we had to pile Smitty up with 30 gallons of extra water in a bladder and as much extra gas as we could, because there are no stores or other means of getting water or fuel on this island.

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The island marker and the cut (entry/exit) for Lee Stocking

The Abandoned Institute

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In order to pursue his interest in marine research and renewable energy, the 600-acre Lee Stocking Island was purchased for $70,000 by John Perry in 1957. He developed the island as a scientific field station and tried to make it self-supporting by incorporating working models of new technologies.

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Wind Turbine – the cables were used to pull the blades to the top of the post (which looks like a mast of a boat on land)

The Perry Institute for Marine Science included laboratories, housing, an airstrip, a dock, boats, and dive support facilities.  Up until SCUBA technology became more advanced, the field station featured shallow-depth submersibles.

From the institute’s website: 

The Perry Institute for Marine Science is dedicated to making a difference by protecting our oceans. We do this through ocean research and education that informs the public and encourages action. We operate a tropical marine laboratory on Lee Stocking Island in the Bahamas. Scientists, students and educational groups visit our facility from around the world to conduct ocean research in this remote, pristine stretch of the Caribbean. In the areas on and around our island, we study things like coral reefs, fisheries, ecosystems and the biodiversity of undersea life.”

After the death of Perry in 2006, research funding dried up and the institute was closed. However, the Institute was not cleaned up; tons of garbage (including hazardous materials), buildings and equipment remain on the island. 

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A couple of the many abandoned buildings and a pick-up truck

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Live-wells used for research

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Airstrip

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Hazardous chemicals and the remnants of a decompression chamber

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The tanker trucks were used to hold fuel for the generators that supported the island

Hunting

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Where the conch live

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Conch:  Before                                      Conch:  After

Beautiful Beaches and clear water in every shade of blue

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Hiking

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Summer leads the way on the trail hike

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Snorkeling

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Anchorage with spectacular sunset

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Farewell & Following Seas

One of the saddest days of of our trip so far was parting ways with Deborah & Keith and their pup, Kai on sv Wrightaway.  Thank you so much for the pleasure of your company, sharing the hunting and snorkeling spots with us, showing Jesse how to clean conch, and especially for sharing all of the super yummy fish & conch meals. 🙂

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As I suspect that this island (or at least a portion) will be sold and developed into some sort of luxury resort over the next couple of years,  I am glad that we had the opportunity to explore this island now, especially in its current state (which, we found to be quite interesting and fun).


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Cost to Cruise Bahamas – April 2016

After our failures to land fish (we hooked them but did not successfully get them onto the boat), we invested in a gaff.  We are hoping that this gets a lot of use once we leave Georgetown to start heading south on the deeper water.

In April, we also had a bit of a data usage snafu…Jesse and I both forgot to turn-off certain apps and inadvertently sucked up all of our data, therefore, we bought 10g of data (normally we only buy 5g and that is plenty). 😦

And last but not least, we did spend extra on food and entertainment because we had company visit and we checked out the Family Islands Regatta and festivities.

April 2016  TOTAL $ 1,956.78

This month we visited Lee Stocking Island, Cat Island, and Great Exuma Island (Georgetown, Red Shanks Anchorage, and Stocking Island).  Those costs break-down as follows:

$  597.07   GROCERIES

$  401.82   ENTERTAINMENT (eating out and alcohol)

$  341.40   BOAT PARTS & OTHER

$  282.43   FUEL (Diesel & Gasoline)

$  276.06   COMMUNICATION

$    48.00   LAUNDRY

$    10.00   TIPS, CHARITABLE DONATIONS, TRASH FEES

$      0.00   PROPANE

$      0.00   WATER

Summary of previous months’ Totals*:

       March 2016         $ 3,149.20

       February 2016    $ 1,851.99

*previous month’s are detailed Cost to Cruise Bahamas – The First Two Months

Bahamas Part 3: Exuma Cays Land & Sea Park

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Continuing on south through the Exumas, we made stops at some of the islands & cays in the Exuma Land & Sea Park.  Warderick Cay was one of our favorite stops.  We anchored at Emerald Rock and had a very quiet spot with several beautiful beaches virtually to ourselves.  We hiked around the island and, as is customary for passing cruisers, we left our driftwood sign on BooBoo Hill.

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Curly Tailed Lizard – only found here

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At Cambridge Cay (Little Bells Cay), we checked out a submerged plane, snorkeled the Sea Aquarium Coral Garden (where Jesse got chased by a shark!), explored the Dungy Caves, kayaked, finally busted out the hammock and spent some time relaxing, oh, and we peeped on Johnny Depps’s private island – Pirate’s of the Caribbean money buys you a pretty nice place in the Bahamas!

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Sand mound at Cambridge

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Sunset at Cambridge

This gallery contains 29 photos